Dip pens can be a little challenging for beginners or for those moving from a calligraphy fountain pen or calligraphy marker. One of the most common problems is getting the ink to flow consistently from the nib – either not flowing enough (scratchy or skipping) or flowing too fast (blotting).
These are just a few troubleshooting tips when having problems with dip pens – by no means a comprehensive list, but a few common issues that are easy to resolve.
For more information on how to use a dip pen refer to the Care and Feeding of the Calligraphy Dip Pen post.
Pen Nibs
New Nibs
A new nib will have a coating on it that will need to be removed as it will interfere with ink flow. The coating is done at the manufacturing level to keep the metal nibs from rusting (you wouldn’t want to buy a rusty nib!)
There are several ways to do this – some more complex than others – but generally a good scrubbing with an old, soft toothbrush and a bit of dish washing liquid, baking soda, toothpaste or ammonia will do the trick.
New Nib (top) and Nib with Coating Removed (bottom)
As the picture indicates, the top nib appears a bit shinier with the coating and duller with the coating removed (bottom nib.) Once the coating is removed the nib is susceptible to rust, so it is important to clean and thoroughly dry the nibs after use.
Damaged Nibs
Inspect the nib to ensure the tines are not bent or overlapping. This can happen with nibs that are thin (small nibs sizes) and flexible. If the bending or overlapping is not too severe, the tines can sometimes be pushed gently back into place. If the tines are severely bent it might be time to replace the nib.
Eventually, nibs might wear down and won’t produce crisp, clean pen strokes. Sometimes they can be gently sharpened using an Arkansas (white) sharpening stone – just be sure that the nib isn’t so sharp that it cuts the paper!
Rusty Nibs
I haven’t found anything that will “cure” rust on a nib other than simply replacing the nib. Hans Presto suggests a fibreglass brush for removing dried paint, and since they are used to remove rust on vehicles it might be worth a try if you are determined to save that nib and the rust isn’t too severe.
A few handy “pen nib care” tools that could be useful in your calligraphy work area or art box – pen cleaner, sharpening stone and an old tooth brush.
Pen Cleaner, Sharpening Stone and Old Toothbrush
A more expensive alternative for cleaning pen nibs is a small ultrasonic cleaner with a pen cleaning solution. They will do an excellent job of cleaning all types of pen nibs, technical pens etc. and might be worth the investment for professionals who do a high volume of work.
Reservoirs
The reservoir is what holds the ink and feeds it to the nib. Pen nibs generally come in two varieties, a reservoir attached to the top (Brause, Tape, TO, Speedball, etc.) or attached to the bottom (Mitchell). The reservoirs are held onto the nib with metal prongs that should keep the reservoir firmly attached to nib without sliding or falling off.
If the reservoir can be removed (most nibs except the Speedball nibs) then disassemble the nib and clean the reservoir. Ink can build up and cause the ink to flow unevenly or might also mix dried ink bits into the ink.
Nibs and Reservoirs
Some brands have a molded “lip” built into the nib (or what could be called a “reservoir indicator), and I have found that this is usually the best place for the reservoir. When attaching the reservoir back onto the nib, make sure the reservoir is fitted back to this position with the top of the reservoir prongs up to the extended “lip”.
Brause Nib with Molded Lip
The reservoir tip should just be touching the nib and centered, not flat against it or pushed to the side. If this still isn’t working well, try moving the reservoir down a little below the lip.
Reservoir Position on Brause Nib
Reservoir on Mitchell Nib
If you are having problems getting the ink to flow with the reservoir, try removing it and loading the back of the nib with a bit of ink and try a few pen strokes. When you can produce a few decent strokes (adjusting hand pressure, different type nib or ink, etc.) re-attach the reservoir and try again.
Hand Pressure
Dip pens might require a little more hand pressure to get the ink flowing than would normally be used for a calligraphy fountain pen or marker. Some nibs, such as the Brause, are quite stiff while others, such as the William Mitchell, are more flexible.
If you find you have to put a lot of pressure on the nib then try a more flexible type, especially if the tines are splaying because of heavy hand pressure.
The reverse problem would be using a too flexible nib with normal hand pressure that would cause the tines to splay, the ink to flow very quickly and blot, in which case a more stiffer nib would be worth trying.
Since there are quite a wide variety of nibs available, take the time to try a few until you find one that works comfortably and well for your writing style and hand pressure.
When lettering, make sure the full width of the nib is on the paper. A few nibs, such as the Brause, are cut at an angle, others such as the Michell are straight cut. You can adjust the angle you hold the pen if the pen strokes are ragged because the full width of the nib is not on the paper, or try a different cut of nib that works better with the way you hold the pen.
Pen Holders
There are many varieties of pen holders available – generally constructed of plastic or wood, some have cork or molded grips – selecting one is a matter of personal preference.
Two Examples of Pen Holders - Plastic (top) and Wood (bottom)
All that should be required is that is it comfortable in your hand and holds the nib securely. Some have metal tabs, some have a slot cut around the base to slide the pen shank.
Pen Holders with Metal Tabs (right) and Slot (left)
The slot varieties are easy – just push the nib shank anywhere around the slot and slide it up until it is secure.
Nib in Holder with Slot
Metal tabs are a little different – the nib is pushed between the tabs and the barrel – not “centered” in the tabs. A nib centered in the tabs is not secure and will “wiggle”.
Correct and Incorrect Placement of Nib in Metal Tab Holder
Ink
The type and character of the ink can also effect ink flow – too thin will cause the ink to flow quickly and blot; too thick will feed the ink more slowly and skip or not flow at all.
Fountain pen ink is generally too thin for dip pens, try an ink specifically marked for Calligraphy. These will be a little more dense than fountain pen ink and will flow better from a nib. Try to avoid inks containing shellac as this will cause the ink to dry very quickly and will gum up the nib and reservoir.
Calligraphy inks also come in a wide variety of densities – Higgins Eternal is an excellent “medium” density ink that should flow well from the nib for beginners, or try a non-waterproof calligraphy ink as these will dry less quickly. Once you are comfortable using a dip pen, there is an exciting world of inks to try!
For more information on inks refer to the Selecting Calligraphy Inks: Tests and Reviews post.
Papers
When troubleshooting a dip pen, try your tests on a smooth, sized paper. Textured papers might let the pen nib “skip” and won’t produce a clean line, and unsized papers might make the ink “bleed” into the fibers, or catch paper fibers in the nib.
Any smooth paper for ink (e.g. sketchbook paper) will be suitable for testing your pen and ink combinations.
More information on papers can be found at the Papers for Calligraphy post.
Test Strokes
Try a few vertical pen strokes (top to bottom) and some horizontal pen strokes (left to right) if right-handed (left-handed might want to reverse the strokes.) Basic Stroke examples can be found at the Stroking the Rules post.
When you find the right combination of pen nib, reservoir and ink to produce clean strokes, try lettering a few words. A nib reservoir will typically hold enough ink to produce a few letters before requiring a “recharge” of ink.
Making it all work together
There are many variables that can cause problems lettering with dip pens – new coated nibs, old worn out nibs, nib cut, reservoir position, pen holders, hand pressure, ink and paper – take some time trying different combinations before finding the best “fit” for your lettering style.
Fortunately, there are a wide variety of tools available – sometimes what comes in a calligraphy set might not be the right combination for you – pen nibs, holders and ink can be purchased individually at a relatively low cost, so if what you have doesn’t work, it might be worth trying something different.
Calligraphy should be fun and enjoyable – you shouldn’t have to “fight” with your pen!
The Calligraphy Pen 
Thank you so much, this was just the information I needed! Very helpful for a beginner.
Great desription and instruction regarding pen nibs, placement and how to put a reservoir on a pen nib. This will explain it well to my students in my calligraphy class.
Thank you for the pictures!!! I had no idea how to position the reservoir on the nib or about cleaning the oil off. This was the best help on the web.
Thank you so much for this page. I’ve been struggling with trying to figure out how to insert the nibs. I was having so much trouble I was starting to lose interest in Calligraphy. I started up again today. Thank you.
Thanks so much – complete beginner here. Just had my first set of nibs and a few holders delivered this morning and came across my first problem – how to insert the nib correctly in the holder. Came to this site via Google and will be returning. Next problem – how to fit the reservoir!
Wow!!! Very clear. Thank you!
Have to add that I followed the pictures of how the reservoir should look on the William Mitchell nib and whether by luck or not, it worked first time. I drew a lovely line first go!
Now all I have to do is sort out a work place!
Thank you so much. I am just finishing a beginners calligraphy class (concentrated on italic and roman fonts). I purchased a set of Brause nibs (left-handed) and Ii am having a horrible time getting the ink to flow. Your troubleshooting techniques are very well explained and give me a great resource to work with. Thanks for being here!
Hi there, great page:) I wonder if you can recommend some nibs for someone really picky and neurotic (me! LOL) I’ve used Brauses (Bandzug and Plakat) and Speedball C, but even though I’m a right hander, I just don’t like the oblique cut. I haven’t tried Mitchells yet, but I’m heavy handed and worry they’d be too flexible (even though I’ve also used red sable brights). I AM working on “lightening” my hand; would Mitchells be best to try, or some other? Hiro’s version of Mitchells? I do like very thin thins, and I’ve heard Mitchells are great for this; as well, I’m big time into all the various Gothics, and of course need the corner(s) to “work” (great with Brauses, not great with Speedball C, if anyone wonders, at least that’s my experience). I’d love to find somebody making a line of pens in sizes from 1/16″ to about 1/2″ or so, I want to write lyrics with the small size, and quotes with a middle size(s), but big single or double word “pieces” are really my thing. I’ve made my own pens too, from quills, rushes, and wood, but I’m looking for some nibs I’ll really like so I don’t have to make new pens all the time. I know the answer is probably Mitchells and a couple big automatic pens, but I’d still appreciate your thoughts. Thanks:)
Thanks for that, great stuff. I was baffled with my new Mitchell set, and found here the answers to the mysterious reservoir. My set had no instructions, just mention of tines which I now know what they mean.
First go I had a blotch and thought why have I picked such a hard way to draw and write. Second go – wonderful – the script looked beautiful and I was amazed and very pleased. Thank you for your efforts, I will return to this site again I’m sure.
Bless,
Paul
I couldn’t find ANYTHING online as close to as detailed in explaining the removal of “the coating”–and pretty much everything else outlined here. Thanks so much!
I have a problem though, and I’m posting it here in case anyone sees it. I used vinegar for my nibs and not only did they all dull, but they became almost black. I’m getting the feeling that whoever suggested this online doesn’t know what they’re doing… and that vinegar actually eats away at the metal. (Only left them in for 25 min.)
They all have rust spots and I keep them as clean and dry as I can but hell, I might as well buy new nibs… I got all the Speedball ones for free, hand me down from my dad who got them in the 60s, so I’m really pushing to try and save at least those ones. If anyone knows ‘what’ happened to the metal, ‘why’ they’re so dark, if there’s any possible way to fix it, and what kinds of solutions I can use to clean them in the future I’d be so grateful.
In the meantime, I’m going online to find new nibs.
Hi Vicky, I can only suggest what “seems” to me to be going on here, but maybe it’ll help you. First, I think the turning black is probably harmless, at least to a point. The vinegar may have removed the smooth polish, so now there are a lot of “nano” sized pits, so the metal has it’s natural color now, lacking it’s brightness from the polish. Vinegar is amazing, as you know, and that chemical reaction is incredible; so yes, technically it’s eating away at the metal, but it would take a long time to eat the nibs away, I think. Although I’ve never done such an expermiment! LOL Bringing that brightness back would be tough, nibs are so small, and this is really only cosmetic (but believe me, I understand, I demand perfection from my equipment, just the same as I’m sure you do:), for instance carbon steel kitchen knives acquire this over time with exposure to air, dust, etc., and it’s simply natural for non stainless steel, perfectly harmless. You could look into various knife maker’s abrasives, like a muslin wheel that goes on a drill, and that you add paste to, there are all different grits since the need is to bring a blade from dull to a bright mirror, that would probably be the most efficient way. Of course, you could also use fine wet dry sandpaper or something such, the various grades of steel wool, but again, what a pain:P So far as cleaning rust, vinegar honestly would be my own best idea too, it’s the most efficient. So for keeping them, well…when I used the same Speedballs you’re using, I used to simply wipe them off well after each session of writing, because I didn’t want to get rust. When I’d give them a “once in a while” cleaning, I’d use dish soap, rinse with the hottest water possible, to get evaporation, and then walk around the kitchen blowing hard through them to get any drops of water out. But my conclusion is that since they’re not stainless steel, keep ’em the hell away from water! LOL I’m personally gonna look into Mitchells, because I think they use a nickel coating, which removes, or should remove, this problem. I’ve used Brauses also, and they bronze their nibs the same way fish hooks are bronzed, and that works well, from what I’ve seen. I don’t know what you’re doing mostly, but I’m working with Brause poster pens right now, which are copper, so no rusting. Someone really needs to make some stainless steel nibs and not use that fact to ask a gazillion dollars apiece, this nib stuff can be frustrating (I used only what I made for a while, even!) Well, I hope something I’ve said has been helpful, and please don’t curse me if it isn’t:) LOL
Me again, Vicky:) I’ve gotta amend some things from my other post (I keep strange hours, and I have a bad habit of checking email and typing when I’m not awake; as well I’m a totally creative person who suffers from a number of mental problems, so my brains don’t always work the way they would/used to, and medication’s sometimes just as much of a hindrance as a help! LOL:) I know exactly what’s going on with your nibs, can’t believe it eluded me: Speedball nibs are non stainless steel; as you said they were hand me downs and rusted. Okay, first, non stainless steel, as I said about kitchen knives, darkens over time, which is perfectly natural from exposure to the air, dust, etc.; oxidation, i.e. rusting, exacerbates this because IT causes pitting, making the surface even darker because it’s becoming uneven, eating away the smoothness of the surface from the factory polish. I don’t want you to be afraid to use vinegar, because you shouldn’t be; what the hell was I thinking, vinegar is acidic, but not “comic book” acidic, in fact, I’ve left things (rusty pocket knives, others) lay in vinegar for days, it only eats what’s ON the metal, and IN the metal where it can get in to do it, not the metal itself. So, what your vinegar did was simply UNCOVER what was there – darkening from time, and further darkening plus pittng from the rusting. Your vinegar did NOT eat the metal, it’s not a strong enough acid. Again, this is normal, and unless your nibs have actual holes rusted in them, it’s a total non issue. As I thought about when I used Speedball nibs, I remembered that keeping them away from water was THE thing – just wipe them well after you use them, because even new ones will rust at the drop of a hat. But vinegar would absolutely be the best thing I can think of to remove traces of ink when you want them really clean in that way. I always figured they were better off with a little ink on them rather than rust:P And if you do decide to get some coated (as nickel or bronze) or non ferrous nibs, do still make sure they’re dry; I’m sure you’d never leave them wet, and being non steel it shouldn’t matter, but I do have paranoia with my equipment as you maybe do also:) LOL The polishing method I talked about above still would seem the best way, power with a muslin wheel, filled with a paste abrasive, but I’ve never done it, so I don’t know how it would work for exactly this. My best advice would be to use vinegar to get all the rust off, then just keep them away from water; in fact I seem to remember reading something somewhere about NEVER using water on Speedballs, only wiping them. So, to reiterate, your vinegar only uncovered what was already there, it didn’t do the harm, the oxidation did, and of course the darkening of carbon steel is normal. As you have some new nibs on the way, if it was me, I’d probably give those old ones away to someone who doesn’t care (I do that stuff all the time, being very OCD about my tools), and chalk it up to a lesson learned. So there’s my amended post, it was driving me nuts to give half assed info, when I know the whole ass of it (LOL), and I hope this helps. Quietfire Design in Canada (British Columbia) has good selections of stuff (shipping’s fast, I’m on the northern US prairie and it’s no problem getting stuff from there), and Suzanne is great to deal with; John Neal Books also has a lot of stuff, good prices. ‘Hope THIS one helps:) LOL
Thanks for your detailed response!
Thank you SO so much! I was afraid that I was going to ruin my own nibs before I even got to using them… I also have some small, tubular drawing nibs that are copper–is that alright to have in the vinegar? They also became dark after use in it. And what are your thoughts on ammonia?
Anyway, thank you thank you thank you! I was sure, since posting on blogs like this almost never get response, that I would never come back. I didn’t check my email until now–I’m surprised and impressed and relieved to know someone cares about the welfare of my little nibs! xD
I’ve got a few new ones on the way, a couple music nibs I found for a few dollars each (for a friend who composes) and I’m still looking in to getting some new calligraphy nibs but I’ll probably have to wait and use the ones I’ve got (I’m so broke…) and I also just bought an old Pelikan Graphos calligraphy pen with a nib set from eBay that I’m sure I’ll have to clean–any idea what I would use for that? I’ve no idea what kind of metal they’re made of.
Thanks again, friend. You’ve put my fears to rest and my nibs are in the vinegar as I type. 🙂
You’re very welcome Vicky! I know how annoying it is to look for info, and ask questions on places like this that may have been long vacated! LOL And you’re right, there’s a LOT of erroneous information online – I think some people write about stuff only having read it, not trying it themselves:P I think vinegar would be fine to degrease anything you’ve got, whatever the metal, it’s acid but still gentle, so it removes it; an old artist friend of mine once lettered his name on his mailbox, and when I asked him how he got it to stick, he told me that the crucial element was, you guessed it, vinegar. This cleaned anything and everything from the galvanized metal that ordinary soap and water wouldn’t, and he learned it the hard way, having had his name simply flake off previously when he didn’t use the vinegar. So, I hope that’s a further example for you of the value and safety of vinegar. Yes, a copper nib should be fine with it too, copper gets it’s green patina, of course, but that’s normal; I also neglected a common sense polishing agent – baking soda – totally safe, cheap, and readily available. But I’ve never used it on nibs, so, who knows if it works well or not, but my hypothesis is that it should clean copper at least, if the patina isn’t too thick, but again, I’ve never tried it. Ammonia? I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t harm anything (except your sinuses!); I don’t know if it would have any specific value for nibs, although it does “cut” things well as a cleaner otherwise so it’s a reasonable candidate to try, I think. And I hear ya, I’m so broke all the time too, damn, that end of the month… Have you ever thought about making your own pens? I’m actually considering to hell with the commercial ones (because I can’t find what I REALLY like, sturdy, non oblique, but making good thins, and of course even the $1 at a time of nibs adds up as you know, and when a guy’s gotta smoke too…LOL) and just making my own all the time, they’re actually quite permanent if you do it right, and it’s a real thrill to use them. There are some good sites (and some crappy ones) that detail working with reeds (i.e. rushes) and quills, and the same things apply to wood. ‘Just an idea:) Hell, I’m looking into natural ink too, as part of trying to go green (and save more smoking money:P). Well, I’ll let you tend your nibs, and I’m so happy you feel better, and I’m happy to help:)
Hey making pens and using natural ink sounds really spiffy! Let me know if you find some real good sources for that kind of stuff–I’m all about making my own things. 😀
Anyway, my nibs– Most of them are just fine but day by day, one nib is gaining rust, out of the blue. It’s a Hunt school nib, round pointed, brand new. I’ve no idea what it’s made of, but I’m guessing whatever it is just doesn’t like vinegar. It was a cheap buy at the school store, so I’m not too broken up; I can always get more. My other Hunt nib is just fine, I don’t get it.
I also have a Brause nib that’s just barely starting to rust, also no idea. But–my dad’s nib from the 50s/60s (it says “Milton Bradely Co.” hahaha…) was rusted before, but it’s all clean now!
Also, I just bought a vintage Pelikan Graphos pen with 12 (well, 11, I guess one went missing over the years) and I believe it might be from either the 60s or the 30s. Pictures of the pen from the 30s look just like this one, so I’m not sure. The case certainly has a lot of wear and tear but only one nib is out of commission–all the others are bright and shiny new!
I just tested it out because I was so unsure as to how to load the ink but luckily there is ONE website out there with a couple old manuals, and I figured it out. Writes like a dream. 🙂
While I’m ahead, I’m going to just use good ol’ reliable pen cleaner, ammonia, and acetate as necessary. I get the feeling that, by default, I need to stay away from water. xD
Hey Vicky:) Cool pen set! Those Germans know how to make stuff! (Of course I’d say that, I’m of 100% German ancestry! LOL) I wish I could remember some sites for you, but it’s been so long since I looked at any, damned if I can remember them:( Just do a Google search for “make medieval ink”, “make reed pen”, etc., and that should do for you. From what I remember, there aren’t a lot of really great sites, and as always, a lot of people just writing about stuff when they don’t seem to have actual experience:P And of course I can keep this line of communication open, should you decide to embark on such things, and have a question requiring my faulty experience:) LOLOLOL I can at least tell you what I’m working on right now, ‘maybe give you a little start: for medieval ink, I’m gonna try powdered charcoal (made some from dry cottonwood in my yard, which is of course in the willow family) with egg whites and add some honey, this is supposedly one authentic medieval recipe (though I’ve no idea of exact amounts or proportions as of yet:); I’m back making rush pens (bulrush, not cattail), which are probably more authentically medieval than even the quill, were probably used longer, and I’d absolutely recommend trying these (only I’ve never found them online though somewhere must have them for calligraphers, ‘been fortunate enough to have some of our prairie rushes here barely a mile from my house!), they’re not tough to work with, and I do believe I’ve made the most beautiful letters ever using them, fat thicks and graceful thins, whether Uncial, Caroline, or Fraktur, you can make love to the words with a rush (reed) pen:) LOL And absolutely, just keep your nibs from water, that’s pretty much the thing with metal, even non ferrous. Gluck schreiben! (“Happy scribing” in my very incorrect and limited German LOL:)
I know this is ages later, but this helped so much! I briefly soaked my troublesome nib in vinegar and now it’s working. I was so glad that it worked because from what it showed when it rarely worked it would do awesome for drawings. Thank you so much for this golden nugget of information!
Ryan,
Manuscript (aka Leonardt, Chronicle, Hiro Rond) makes a Mitchell roundhand clone; they look basically identical, but I find them less flexible. These may work for you.
They can be found at John Neal Bookseller (listed as Hiro Rond there).
http://www.johnnealbooks.com/prod_detail_list/16
I too despise obliquely cut nibs. I also don’t like stiff nibs, though, so I prefer Mitchells.
Hey, thanks a lot, I’ll have a look at those:) And it’s nice to know I’m not the only one who can’t abide those damned oblique nibs! Thanks again:)
Some people remove the nib coating by wiping it down with liquid gum arabic. Some people just dip them in ink and wipe several times. The penmen of yore popped their new bibs into their mouths to clean them, but for some reason this is not generally recommended today. 🙂
But detergent and a soft toothbrush works great, as the article said.
As for rust, if it’s not too deep, a soak in WD-40, followed by a scrub with toothbrush and soap, or with an SOS pad if the rust is being difficult, can often do the trick.
On the other hand, nibs are pretty cheap, and it gives you an excuse to order some supplies. 🙂
Thanks for everything, Ryan! If I start making pens or ink… or anything, really, I’ll come back here and let you know of my progress. I’ll probably research it after the semester is over–finals are a-coming… 😉
Hi. Another method of removing the manufacturer’s coating is burning it off with 2-3 seconds of direct heat. I think I read that suggestion in the Bible of Caligraphy….not sure…but it works well. When I pull a new nib out of my stash, I just light a match, hold it under the nib for 2 seconds, and I’m ready to write. Easy. And for me, more palatable than scrubbing with various solutions.
**enya
OMG PLEASE HELPPP!!!! I’ve been using mitchell nibs since i started doing calligraphy, and i just got a set of speedballs and i have NO IDEA how to load the ink with the reservoir on top!!! this is so crazy!!! ahhh!!!
You might want to read this post Care and Feeding of the CalligraphyDip Pen. It’s actually quite easy to top load a pen if you are using a dropper or brush – it might just take a little practice. Good luck!
Try this: after you dip, “flick” the nib once or twice into the bottle, then scrape the bottom of the nib 2 or 3 times on the rim before you write. You can give the top of the nib a scrape too. I’ve used Speedballs aplenty, and believe it or not, they WILL yield crisp, non blobby letters, they just take some getting used to, finding how many flicks and scrapes, top and/or bottom of the nib, etc. You’ll simply need to find what’s right for your own writing situation. You can also just write the extra ink off, or blot on a damp sponge, but this wastes a lot of ink; I’ve never tried them all together, but that could be what works for you. I want you to know I completely understand your panic – I make my own reed pens because I hate reservoirs and oblique nibs! LOL ‘Hope that helps:)
Thanks very much, that is helpful. : )
Hi,
I can’t get my gold leaf to stick on my PVA base. I’ve tried reactivating it with breathing on it through a straw but for some reason it’s not taking to it.
Have tried transfer & loose leaf. This problem has just started after several successful attempts.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks
Glad I could help:)
I JUST started calligraphy, and I was wondering what kind of pens I should buy? I currently have a dip pen and I really like it, but I want to buy more tips. Something a little more on the cheaper side would be nice, but my dad said he’s willing to spend more money to buy something with better quality. Any suggestions?
You might want to read this post – Fun with Pens – to give you an idea of what is available. Dip pens nibs are generally inexpensive, but of course cost and availability depends on what you can find either in your area or who will ship to you from an on-line source.
Here are two sites you may want to check out – quietfiredesign.com (Canada), and johnnealbooks.com (USA) – both have lots of different nibs, sold in sets as well as singly. You might want to get another of the same size nib as you’re already using but from some different makers, to see what is most comfortable for you, since some nibs are stiffer (Speedball, Brause), and others are more flexible (Mitchell, Hiro). Happy writing:)
Thanks for posting this. I just got a set of Mitchell’s nibs with reservoirs, and had no idea they went UNDER the nib! No wonder I couldn’t get them to fit! 🙂
Thanks so much:) I’m going to try scrubbing my tip with baking soda to see of that works. Also I think I had my tip in the holder wrong.
Hey, it’s Vicky. Just checking in; I still receive email notifications for this thread so I wanted to come and check out the blog. I’m learning Japanese, so I will be practicing brush calligraphy, soon. 😀
Is there a way to fix a Speedball reservoir if it doesn’t lie flat on the nib?
thank you so much for the FAQ!
That was a very useful lesson, thanks.
Dude!! Calligraphy is way funner when the film is off. hahaha It works!! lol
Awesome blog!!
If my nibs are rusty should I start with new ones?
If they are badly rusted it might be better to purchase new nibs. Dip pen nibs are relatively inexpensive but if you are using a fountain-style calligraphy pen you might have to replace the entire pen if the nibs are not sold separately.
You could try some gentle cleaning to remove the rust and see if that works before replacing if the cost is expensive.
my calligraphy pen is so jacked up i just got it today and it was going good at first then it stoped writing but it has plenty of ink. what do i do?
Thanks for this GREAT information on inks and nibs. It has saved me a lot of trouble. I love using my dip pen now. I still ‘dip’ though; somehow I cannot get used to filling the reservoir with a dropper!
I was wondering if anyone could help me, I tried to change the nip of my pen but it wasn’t budging so I left it, today I’ve come back to use the pen and now the ink just flows straight to the tip and doesn’t write, One side of the tines was very slightly lower so I gently lined it up, but still nothing, I’m not sure if they’re not too far apart that the ink isn’t being held? And idea or tips? Thanks in advance!:)
It sounds like you either have ink build-up somewhere or your tines aren’t right. Try cleaning the nib to remove as much ink build-up as you can and see if that helps. If the tines look splayed or bent it might be time for a new nib.
This has been wonderfully helpful. I’m working with nibs and a pen holder from when my mother was in high school a long, long time ago – and I think the problems I’m having are due to them and the ink I have just being old and well-used. I cleaned them all off today, thanks to the tip about the ammonia, and they work better, but still not what I need. I think it’s high time these nibs get retired.
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[…] repels ink! Scrub a new nib gently with a gritty toothpaste before using it for the first time (see Troubleshooting a Calligraphy Dip Pen). Applying a little gum arabic will also help ink stick to a […]
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I hope someone here may be able to help me. I have a brand new calligraphy set with a feather quill. The set comes with a number of metal nibs and I am unsure how to remove the one already attached to the quill and insert another. I’d really appreciate your guidance! Thanks in advance.
Thank you for this article, as I beginner, it was really helpful to me
Any advice on how to get ink to flow smoothly from the Mitchell poster nibs? I’m having a rough go of it. I can only get half of one letter out before it runs out of ink. I know they are quality nibs, so it’s operator error here. What is the placement supposed to look like for the lower and upper reservoir attachments. The top one looks like it’s supposed to control air entrance…?
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